Mourning Clothing and Accessories
The fabrics, trimmings, and accessories worn during deep mourning followed very strict guidelines. An 1897 issue of Harper’s Bazaar explained, “Black is always black in one sense of the word, but whether there is a bright or a dull finish to the cloth, a narrow or wide cord in the weave, completely changes the whole appearance and makes the material suitable for mourning, or most eminently unsuitable, so that, to critical women, a figured, bright-looking, all-black gown is quite as inappropriate as would be a colored gown for anyone in deep mourning.” The most common fabrics used for deep mourning garments were bombazine, a fabric woven from silk and wool (an example of which can be found in a mourning bodice in the Filson’s collection), and silk crepe. Chosen for their dull, lusterless finish, these costly fabrics were intentionally unfashionable, symbolizing a widow’s desire to move through the world unnoticed as she grieves. Dresses lacked all trimmings for the first few months of mourning. As time went on, embellishments of jet beads and crepe sashes were permitted, and other trimmings such as lace could slowly be introduced.
Sources:
“New York Fashions: Mourning Wear,” Harper’s Bazaar, January 30, 1897, 87, ProQuest (125056118).